| THE SUBWAY Top-Down Route (via Russell Gulch) | |
Overview:
The Subway "top-down" route via Russell Gulch is the classic way to hike the Left Fork of North Creek. This route is a long strenuous day (6 to 10 hours) through roughly 8 miles of rugged territory involving several short rappels, a few down-climbs, and several cold swims. A car-spot or shuttle is required to do this hike. This route starts at the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead (roughly 15.5 miles up the Kolob Terrace Road from the town of Virgin), but you will want to spot a car at the exit point -- the Left Fork Trailhead (roughly 8.2 miles up the Kolob Terrace Road).
Logistics:
Aside from arranging a car spot or a shuttle service (readily available from one of the outfitters in Springdale), you must also get a backcountry permit to do the Subway. This route has gained epic popularity and the National Park Service now limits access to the Subway to 50 people a day. (Camping is not permitted in the Left Fork.) For more information on permit reservations and the lottery system for the Subway, please see the Zion Permits website.
Detailed Description:
The "top-down" Subway route can be broken down into several sections:
- The Initial Approach Hike:
This is the easy part of the hike! Starting at the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead, hike the mile-long trail until it intersects with the Wildcat Canyon Trail. Turn east (left) towards Lava Point. Then after only another .2 miles, turn right (south) onto the Northgate Peaks Trail. After only another .2 miles, you will see a signpost that signals the start of the Subway route. Now it's time to leave the Northgate Peaks Trail and follow the unofficial, yet well-defined, path that heads southeast down into Russell Gulch.
- Descent of Russell Gulch:
Now the scenery starts to get more interesting as we make our way down the slickrock formations of Russell Gulch for roughly two miles to get to the Left Fork of North Creek. Follow the cairns and the well-defined path as it goes down the slickrock hills and through a few forested areas. Warning: Russell Gulch is a very wide slickrock valley with many different layers; follow the route on the map closely and do not simply hike down the watercourse blindly. The route described here is a hiking route that crosses over the Russell Gulch watercourse, rather than descending it. (A descent of the watercourse involves several 100' rappels.)
As the route reaches the cliffs above Left Fork of North Creek, it will turn west to give a great view downcanyon. Following the rim, the trail then makes a steep and somewhat eroded scramble north into the lower mouth of the Russell Gulch watercourse. The scramble isn't particularly difficult, but it can be intimidating. Once at the bottom, hike out the final section of Russell Gulch to join up with the Left Fork!
- Left Fork Slot Section:
The Left Fork starts out looking like a fairly benign streambed, but after a short amount of hiking you will reach the boulder field obstacle -- a spot where several large boulders have fallen into the canyon. It's an easy (but slightly awkward) little rappel down between the north wall (right downcanyon) and the big boulder. After a bit more hiking, we come to our first mandatory swim through a beautifully sculpted section of sandstone. (If you have never had to swim on a hike before, this is the perfect place to learn. A drybag in your pack makes a great floatation device!)
Now the territory really starts to get interesting as more water appears in the canyon and the rock formations get taller and narrower. The next challenge is the "bowling ball corridor" -- a very narrow swimming section that is marked by a "bowling ball" chockstone stuck in the narrow walls above the water. (There were actually two chockstones up until Spring 2005 when the other got washed away.) It's a very short, but awkward, little rappel into the (usually) waist-deep water, then it's time to swim down the narrow chamber. You will probably have to remove your pack and hold it next to you as there is one tight doorway-like formation that you may have to fit through sideways. This is by far the most strenuous obstacle of the hike. (Note: Alternatively, you can scramble up and rappel down a series of shelves on the south side to avoid the swim, but you would be missing all of the fun.)
A little more downcanyon, we reach Keyhole Falls -- a very short and easy rappel into the most beautiful section of the canyon known as "The Subway." The tubular shape of the canyon along with the straight-cut lines that look like train tracks give this canyon its famous name. The beautiful alcoves, clear flowing water, and golden light bouncing off of the walls make this a very magical place. Take the time to really soak it in! A little downcanyon, you will hike past the "north pole" -- a log propped up against the canyon walls that has been made famous by many photographers.
After one more bend in the canyon, we reach the final rappel. There are many solutions to get down, but the easiest route for first-timers is to carefully cross a log to get to the left (south) side of the canyon and do a nice and easy rappel off of the bolt. A 60' rope (doubled over) is just long enough to reach bottom. (Some guidebooks say you need a 50' rope for this route, but this length is insufficient.) Alternatively, you could rappel off of one of the logs by the little hidden waterfall or if you have some climbing experience, there is a fairly easy scramble down the south wall into the pools before the standard rappel. Once down, enjoy the sights and take off your canyoneering gear because the technical section is over!
- Lower Left Fork Hike:
This part of the hike may seem a bit anti-climactic; after the last subway section, the canyon quickly opens up and we are back in direct sunlight again. The wash is still beautiful with many wondrous slickrock shelves creating waterfalls and multi-stepped cascades, but the last few hours will be spent simply trying to make time through the obstacle course of rocks and plant life.
- Exit Out to the Left Fork Trailhead:
After roughly two-and-a-half miles of hiking the open wash, you will see an exit sign indicating the final trail up and out of the canyon. (A GPS is very useful to keep track of your progress to make sure that you don't miss the exit or attempt to exit too early up Lee Valley!) The final trail heads out the north side of the wash and zig-zags its way 400 feet up a shelf of old black volcanic rock. After a long day of hiking, this final uphill can be quite grueling, but don't give up! Once the trail clears the ridge and heads in, it's fairly easy hiking to the Left Fork Trailhead. (And hopefully you have your car keys!)
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Subway Map #1:
Russell Gulch to Keyhole Falls.
Note: While viewing the map, click on the map
to return to this page. |
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Subway Map #2:
Keyhole Falls to Left Fork Trailhead.
Note: While viewing the map, click on the map
to return to this page. |
Equipment Needed:
60' rope, a climbing harness, 50' webbing (for handlines and/or emergency use), a few rapid links or rappel rings, a drybag (good to keep gear inside your back dry and help it function as a floatation device), high-energy snacks (since this is a long strenuous day). Wetsuits aren't required, but they can make the swims more pleasant in the cooler months.
Technical Challenges:
Four short rappels, several sections of swimming in cold water, several downclimbs, navigation in Russell Gulch and navigation to find the final exit out of the Left Fork.
WARNING!
While the Subway is described as a SEMI-technical canyon (implying that it is easy), if you have no canyoneering experience, do NOT take this canyon for granted. It is a long strenuous day with a lot of hiking, scrambling, and a few cold swims. Many people have twisted their ankles by taking these little rappels for granted or by callously jumping off of obstacles. This remote canyon would not be a fun place to be injured. I would not recommend this route for anybody who has no experience rappelling or rock-scrambling.
Joe's Spin:
This route is one of Zion's greatest hits and one of my personal favorites. From the sublime beauty of Russell Gulch in the morning to the amazingly photogenic Subway section, to the fun little rappels and swims, this "hike" has it all. The only downside is dealing with the logistics of spotting cars and navigating the multi-stepped process of obtaining a backcountry permit to do this route.
VIEW THE PHOTOGRAPHS! | Return to the Kolob Terrace
