THE BARRACKS (East Fork of the Virgin River) 
ROUTE INFORMATIONVIEW PHOTOS!

Overview:
The Barracks (Upper Parunuweap Canyon)In BLM territory just east of the upper east canyon section of Zion National Park is a long stretch of beautiful and remote territory through the East Fork of the Virgin River (aka Upper Parunuweap Canyon). The route through the East Fork makes for a strenuous but rewarding 20-mile backpack through some spectacular and remote scenery. The hike typically starts off of Route 89 just south of Mt. Carmel Junction and heads west following the East Fork canyon down river for many winding miles until you reach the border of Zion National Park. "The Barracks" refers to the golden section of the hike where the walls are tall and narrow, much like the more popular Zion Narrows (North Fork) route. While this canyon doesn't have any technical obstacles, it is a long hike through knee- to chest-deep water and requires very good navigation skills for the exit route. Note: Lower Parunuweap Canyon (inside of the park) is an off-limits "Natural Research Area," so you must take the strenuous alternate escape route to return to civilization by the Checkerboard Mesa.

Getting There/Logistics:
The East Fork of the Virgin River is most-often done as a 2-day through hike, so you will need some sort of shuttle or car spot. The best bet is to probably plant your vehicle at one of the small turnoffs just west of the big Checkerboard Mesa pullout on Route 9 within the park. From there, take a shuttle or a second car to the starting point -- an access road roughly half a mile south of Mount Carmel Junction off of Route 89. (Note: Mount Carmel Junction is the small resort town roughly 12 and a half miles east of the park, at the intersection of Route 9 and Route 89.) No permit is required for this backpacking trip as the route is located almost entirely outside of Zion National Park in neighboring BLM land.

Detailed Description:
Starting about half a mile south of the Mt. Carmel Junction off of Route 89, the East Fork route follows a jeep road west into the East Fork canyon. For the first part of the hike, you will pass through many insets of private land; always close any fence gates behind you and obey any private property signs. After a few miles, the jeep road fades and for the rest of the route, you will be hiking in the water almost all of the time. Along the way, you will pass many, many side canyons including Yellowjacket Canyon, Bay Bill Canyon, Mineral Gulch, Meadow Creek, Poverty Wash, Misery Canyon (a good canyoneering route), and a few unnamed, yet beautiful cracks. As you make your way down the river, the scenery and the canyon walls get more and more impressive.

Although the East Fork is a beautiful alternative to the classic Zion Narrows, there are a few downsides: there is a lot of muddy clay in this geological layer of Zion, so you will be sinking and slipping in quicksand all day. The other annoying feature of being in BLM land downriver of a town: signs of human garbage. Beer cans, tires, and tracks and broken parts from ATV's that were taken into the river. Although ATV's have been banned from going through the river, that hasn't stopped a few people, and the landscape is definitely not as pristine as the lands protected by the NPS.

The Barracks (Upper Parunuweap Canyon)"The Barracks" refers to the golden section of the hike -- the last few miles of the East Fork just before reaching the National Park boundary. Here the walls are tall and narrow and the canyon is dark, reminiscent of the popular North Fork Zion Narrows. In some areas, the water can get chest-deep, especially at one obstacle where several boulders have fallen into the river. (See photos.) Webbing may be useful as a handline to help your group over or around a few of the boulders. Near the end of the route where the river makes a fairly sharp turn right (north) just before the NPS border, look to an overgrown bank on the right (north) side of the river to find an interesting landmark embedded in the wall: the Powell Plaque (a somewhat difficult-to-find plaque commemorating John Wesley Powell). You will want to make a point of finding the plaque as this will help you locate the exit route. If you have time, you can hike down an extra half mile to the unofficially named "Labyrinth Falls" (the impassable waterfalls that mark the farthest you can legally go downstream).

Checkerboard Mesa Escape Route: Now for the hard part... Back in the good old days before the National Park Service designated Parunuweap Canyon as a "Natural Research Area" (in 1993), the Barracks route continued down the East Fork to take you all the way to Springdale. These days, no hikers are allowed in (lower) Parunuweap Canyon, so we take the fun alternate escape route out of the river. About 50 yards upstream from the Powell plaque is a fairly steep rock scramble that takes you north up and out of the river. Although this is a non-technical climb, the first stretch is quite vertical and may be quite intimidating and strenuous, especially to those with a fear of heights. After the initial climb, the route levels off a bit but continues uphill through some beautiful slickrock territory above Parunuweap Canyon.

A GPS, map, and compass are invaluable in finding your way here. There is no one correct route for this section, and the random cairns may be less than helpful, but your goal is to make it to the canyon just to the west of the backside of Checkerboard Mesa. Once Checkerboard Mesa Canyon, you need to make it up to the saddle and then it is all downhill hiking (with a few minor rock-scrambling obstacles) north to Route 9 and your car spot. Do not under-estimate how strenuous the escape route can be. Although it is only 4 miles, it is roughly a 1400 ft. elevation gain, and you will be hitting it when you are feeling less than fresh, possibly in the hot afternoon sun. It could take anywhere between 3-6 hours to get from the river to Route 9.

The Barracks and Checkerboard Mesa Escape Route Map.
Note: While viewing the map, click on the map
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Equipment Recommendations:

Backpacking Options:
I would try to make it fairly close to the confluence with Poverty Wash by the first night. Always keep your eyes open for camping opportunities; there aren't very many ideal sandy banks or groves to camp in, but there are a handful of half-way descent spots to stop for the night. If you are making good time, another option is to start up the Checkerboard Mesa Escape Route and camp at one of the fairly sandy and level benches well above the river.

Joe's Spin:
This is a great backpacking route. It's a lot of work, but it's worth it! This one drawback is also a feature: because this territory is so remote and difficult to get in or out of, you are unlikely to see many people in the East Fork. Most people would opt to day-hike the bigger and easier North Fork Zion Narrows instead.

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